Forgive this
writer for ruminating once again on his favorite movie, The Godfather, but every time I enter the Italian-deli
establishment, Russo’s, on 7th Avenue, I’m reminded fondly of the
scene in which Clemenzo instructs a young Michael Cordeleone on the finer
points of making tomato spaghetti sauce. The seated observer can almost taste
the sauce.
Russo’s does that to you.
Around for fifteen years, Russo’s
specializes in the foodstuffs of Italy – crusty semolina-laden hero bread, fresh
pastas [including meat and vegetarian tortellini], fresh ravioli [lobster and
pumpkin are options], fresh sauces [I like particularly the Vodka and Marinara
for $5 a container], and a tableful of olive offerings.
A suggestion: Russo’s is a great
option for Park Slope residents coming home from work too tired or too impatient
to prepare spaghetti. A block-and-a-half from the 9th Street F line,
there’s fresh pasta and fresh sauce that’ll heat up in no time. I’ve done this
drill many times.
Making our way down the store, there
are delicious appetizer selections, including all kinds of cheeses, freshly
made mozzarella, marinated artichoke hearts, pepperoni and sausage.
Lunch sandwiches are eye-popping: if
a sumptuous, generously-apportioned hero is exactly what you crave, why not get
the broccoli-rabe-and-mozzarella-with-garlic-and-oil ‘bomb’? Or, how about the
appropriately named ‘Italian’ Hero, consisting of a trio of hard salamis,
sautéed red peppers and provolone? If I’m famished, and in the mood, there’s
nothing more celestial than a Russo sandwich. All sandwiches, incidentally, are
$8.95. Sandwich options include chicken parmesan, grilled chicken and
vegetarian selections as well —and many more to choose from. Paninis and wraps
adorn the menu, too.
Russo’s is a reminder of
another age – a small, intimate grocery redolent of the infinite pleasures of
fresh, tasty food. As chain stores expand and multiply relentlessly, Russo’s
and places like it are essential to the vitality of the Park Slope ‘village.’
By Jim Israel
Jim@ParkSlope.com |
